The history of what we now call ice screws was initiated in 1924 on the North-West face of the Gross-Wieesbachhorn by Willo Welzenbach. As one of the great specialists in the history of climbing on ice and the first to overcome the huge technical difficulties he invented them for his own use. That day signalled the beginning of the debate of whether it was feasable or not to use protection on ice just as on rock.
Whilst the debate on the safety of protection on ice has been going on for years, progress has been steadily made in the manufacturing of screws and their efficiency. Grivel had the final word in the debate with its 360° screw and the aim of fixing protection where and when we want to rather than only where the shape of the ice let us. So the debate is now over: yes - protection on ice is safe if it’s placed correctly and it can be placed quickly and efficiently.
Give yourself a 360° and you’ll be amazed by its efficiency: really easy to get a bite, quick and smooth to screw right in. It’s due to the four blades sharpened in two different directions: the four blades “slice” the ice and their bevelled underside pushes the crushed ice into the tube.
Naturally with time the blades’ lose their edge, becoming rounded and our screw will need some maintenance if it’s going to carry on amazing us! This is done with a fine file, never with a grindstone and always using the utmost of care. Some alpinists have learnt how to do it regularly just like skiers who keeps the edges on their skis sharp. You can really feel the difference! But I can assure you it isn’t fun doing it!
So Grivel has worked on it and produced an automatic machine that restores the tip of the blades to their original state: just like new!
How to take advantage of this opportunity?
You can take your screws to one of the following specialists centres where they will sharpen them:
- Gobbisport s.a.s
Via Segantini, 72 – 38062 Arco (TN) – Tel. 0464 532500
- Df Sport Specialist
Via Madre Teresa – 20035 Lissone (MI) – Tel. 039 2454390
- Bar Licone Cogne
Rue Bourgeois, 60 – 11012 Cogne (AO) – Tel. 0165 74160
- Sportler
Portici 1 - 39100 Bolzano Tel. 0471 977719
- A Sport
VIA CARDUCCI 41 32010 CHIES D'ALPAGO (BL) Tel. 0437 470129
- Ravaschietto
VIA ROMA 39/D 12100 CUNEO (CN) Tel. 0171 692081
- Bside
via Ravina 28 Torino
- Sport de Grandi
Via Marmolada, 33 32020 Rocca Pietore (BL) Tel. 0437.722020
Alternatively Grivel offers a direct service at its base in Courmayeur to sharpen worn out screws. Follow these instructions:
- download the form
- read the instructions carefully
- fill in the form completely. Fill in the return label carefully with the address where you want the screws sent to
- put the screws in a padded envelope (plastic bubble lining found in any newsagent). Protect the blades with tape so they don’t puncture the envelope
- send it first class post to Grivel
- you’ll soon get back your “re-born” screws
Warning: the returning envelope will have your address label on it and Grivel will not assume responsibility if the address is wrong or incomplete.
Sharpening ice screws
Grivel promises:
- to sharpen the blades perfectly
- to clean the inside as far as possible and lubricate it
- to clean as far as possible the outside of the tube and the screw’s fillets
- to supply a re-usable plastic protection for the sharpened blades
- to supply a re-usable plastic protection for the sharpened blades
- to send the screws back within 5 working days of receiving them
Notes:
- Grivel can sharpen good quality screws (high tenacity steel) with blades (teeth) that are still intact even if they are worn down
- Don’t send screws in Titanium, nor of Eastern European production, nor European production (or brand)
- Don’t send screws in light alloy
- Screws to be sharpened must have 4 frontal blades and not the three found in older screws
- The diameter of screws to be sharpened must lie between 19 and 22 millimeters
- If the screw’s teeth are broken Grivel will get in contact by e mail with the sender and offer a quote for the work, this will only start following agreement by the client
- Grivel maintains the absolute right not to procede work on screws where the operation would be pointless, either due to an extremely bad state or due to the poor quality of the original screw. The client must accept Grivel’s decision on the job not being feasable or not worth the work involved
- Unsuitable screws will be returned to the client with Grivel only retaining postal costs
- Grivel will sharpen a minimum number of 3 screws per client
- The following table shows costs according to quantity and different means of return postage
- Screws will be sent by second class postage with no cost to the client, who will only pay for the work itself
- Costs for returns by first class postage can be found in the following table
- The total sum deduced from the following table, including the choice of first class postage if desired, must be put in cash in an envelope inside the envelope containing the blades sent to Grivel
N.B. This offer is only available for screws posted in Italy and returned within Italy
F.A.Q.
At this point the question begs: does it only work with Grivel ice screws?
Of course not, if the diameter of a screw lies between 19 mm. and 22 mm., it can be sharpened according to Grivel’s instructions. This also means that the tip’s new shape will be more efficient and easier to screw in. Obviously the general quality of the screw won’t be improved and above all its ability to maintain the edge: this comes from the quality of the steel and not the efficiency of the sharpener.
How many times can I re-sharpen an ice screw?
As many times as you want but keeping in mind that the screw will get shorter every time
Can sharpening be considered a modification of a product?
This is a sensible question as modifying the product results in the cancellation of the product’s guarantee and incorrect sharpening with an unsuitable instrument and a lack of know-how comes under this category. But sharpening carried out with the Grivel machine will not alter the product’s characteristics at all and consequently will have no effect on the validity of the guarantee
How often will a screw have to be sharpened?
Whether it’s new or re-sharpened a screw will lose its sharpness in time. It depends on the quality of the ice; if it contains fragments of stone; if one is careful to avoid stones hidden in the ice; not using a screw that goes through thin ice hitting rock on the other side; the tips must be cleaned and dried after use, using oil or silicon to stop them rusting; the tips must be protected with the plastic cover when not in use. If all this is carried out then it will last a long time, for a whole winter season if you are careful. Though if the ice is really cold it is best to make good use of this new device and keep your screws as sharp as possible.
